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The Video World!

Thats right, you heard it, I thought I might give a go at the video world..  For fly tying anyway!  So here is the first, hopefully there will be more!!

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The olive Crane Bugger “click the Picture for the video”

Crane Bugger Fly Tying Video

Enjoy!

Hud

Grocery Shopping!!

Spent the weekend of August 24th salmon fishing down at Astoria, OR at buoy 10.  The fishing was great, most of the fish, however, were wild Chinook that had to be released unharmed..  That’s ok I guess, hopefully there will be some left for years to come.  We did manage to keep 2 hatchery Coho, and one hatchery Chinook, my sister landed, it was her first salmon she got to keep!!  We fished out of Dad’s boat, with myself, my wife, my dad, and sister, we had a great time with the family..  The Host camper makes for a great place to stay and  Dad’s boat worked perfect for salmon trolling.  This was a complete gear fishing experience, it’s the only “gear” I own, the fresh salmon fillets in the freezer are worth it!!

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Sunday Morning at Sunrise, Oregon side mouth of the Columbia.

Columbia River-0715

The Crew! Me, My Wife, and My Sister..

Enjoy!

Hud

Huds Shimmer Fringe Minnow

I’m sure this has been done by now, but here’s a cool little minnow pattern using only Hareline Dubbin’s Shimmer Fringe!

Huds Shimmer Fringe Fly

Huds Shimmer Fringe Fly

Hook – Tiemco 811 #4

Thread – Mono

Body – Hareline Shimmer Fringe (White bottom, Dark top)

Eyes – Prismatic Eyes 3/16″

Head – Orange thread coated with Clear Cure Goo

 

Enjoy

Hud

Wiring a ClackaMax for a Trolling Motor

Lots of things have changed since I came back from AK.  To start, I sold both my bass boat and drift boat.  I then found a nice used ClackaMax for sale here in Bend and bought it.  My thinking was two fold, one get rid of having (2) boats.  They were becoming a pain to store..  and two, upgrade a drift boat so that it can be used in stillwater like I used the Skeeter..  So, where to start?  I knew that the next boat would have to be a drift boat, there is just no way I could get rid of the idea of being able to float the Deschutes at will!  Ok, so a drift boat in stillwater?  It would have to be large enough for at least (2) anglers to be comfortable.  It would have to have walk around seating, (constantly stepping over bench seats is not an option).  It would have to have flat decks, (standing in a drift boat all day on sloped decks is not my idea of any fun)!  Alternately the boat would need to be “rowable”!!

I called up Pavati first and talked to them about there boat.  It seemed to have all the attributes I was looking for.  Two things turned me off, the first was the cost, and the second was weight- there heavy, but very nicely laid out!  Then I called Willie, the 18×60 seemed to be the boat, built with flat decks and “pod” style seating with a “walk around” rowers seat was the right direction.  I happened to be in PDX for business one day and decided to stop into Clackacraft on my way home.  I’m glad I did, the ClackaMax was the perfect boat.  A good “rower”, flat decks, “pod” style seating, light, maneuverable, and the least expensive of all of them!  Now imagine my surprise when I noticed the same one I would have ordered for sale, used, less than 2 miles from my house!!  Needless to say I bought it on the spot and saved $3,500.00!!

Once I got the boat home, I started the design and ordering process, this is really one of my favorite parts!

Just some of the parts required for this build!

Just some of the parts required for this build!

The parts came from several different online sources. If your doing something like this be sure and look around for the best price, for instance, I paid less than $1.00 per foot for the 6ga wire when most sites were selling it for almost $2.00!!  One thing that is important regarding the wire, is that you use marine rated wire. The marine wire has been “tinned” meaning every copper strand has been coated in solder and then twisted together    It’s also more “pliable” than other wire..

The list included some of the following:

6hp Johnson outboard “longshaft” for main power, (this was my old motor -prior to the Skeeter- I bought it back).

80lb (24v) Minnkota Riptide ST trolling motor with I-Pilot (the only way to go).  The Riptide is the saltwater version of the Terrova and does not include a foot controller, something you don’t need in a drift boat!

Humminbird 596 fish finder.

Switch panel with fuses and 12v socket for charging the I-Phone, (I use the Navionics app for mapping).

(2) group 24 marine deep cycle batteries for the trolling motor.

(1) group U1 33ah battery for the fish finder & accessories, (future LED lighting and possible a bilge pump?).

Cabelas onboard (3) bank battery charger.

25′ of 6ga marine wire red & black.

20′ of 12/2 marine wire for accessories.

Other items I picked up were a 4 pully side release anchor system, (I have used the foot release for several years and never really like it).  And an anchor nest, as the boat did not have one.  And of course a myriad of small parts like stainless nuts, bolts, screws, wire loom, glue,and other necessary items.

So, without further adieu, here are the photos showing the build.

The installed 4 pulley anchor release.

The installed 4 pulley anchor release.

Amazingly the 3 gal gas can for the motor fits perfectly into the rear seat pod!

Amazingly the 3 gal gas can for the motor fits perfectly into the rear seat pod!

Motor mounted and new rubber floor mats installed.

Motor mounted and new rubber floor mats installed.

Custom made aluminum bow plate for mounting the trolling motor.

Custom made aluminum bow plate for mounting the trolling motor.

mounting plate painted with "hammertone" Rustoleum and ready to mount.

mounting plate painted with “hammertone” Rustoleum and ready to mount.

The bow plate has been mounted and the power socket is installed

The bow plate has been mounted and the power socket is installed, note the hole for the wire loom heading into the bow section of the boat.

I decided to run the wire along the gunnel in a split loom.  The mounts shown are for attaching the loom with a wire tie.  I glued these mounts to the hull with 3M 5200 marine glue (I don' think they will ever come off)!
I decided to run the wire along the gunnel in a split loom. The mounts shown are for attaching the loom with a wire tie. I glued these mounts to the hull with 3M 5200 marine glue (I don’ think they will ever come off)!

Here the wire and loom is shown exiting the side tray.  (newer boats have a much longer side tray, which would allow for a shorter run into the bow area.

Here the wire and loom is shown exiting the side tray. (newer boats have a much longer side tray, which would allow for a shorter run into the bow area.

This photo shows the wire and loom entering the side tray area.  Also shown is the cutout for the switch panel.  Note the wire ties at the first bend, these are securing the wire loom to the top of the side tray.

This photo shows the wire and loom entering the side tray area. Also shown is the cutout for the switch panel. Note the holes at the first bend, these will be used for wire ties to secure the wire loom to the top of the side tray.

Here the wire loom has been secured to the clips, after the glue has cured.  This makes for a nice clean installation.
Here the wire loom has been secured to the clips, after the glue has cured. This makes for a nice clean installation.

The wire loom existing the bow, and wired to the Minnkota plug in the new bow plate.

The wire loom exiting the bow, and wired to the Minnkota plug in the new bow plate.

 

The installed transducer for the Humminbird.  I secured it under the front deck with regular silicone for a "shoot through the hull" application.  Since the ClackaMax is solid fiberglass, this installation should work perfect.  As a bonus, It can be used while on the river!!

The installed transducer for the Humminbird. I secured it under the front deck with regular silicone for a “shoot through the hull” application. Since the ClackaMax is solid fiberglass, this installation should work perfect. As a bonus, It can be used while on the river!!

Here the transducer wire is enclosed in split loom and mounted to the front deck headed into the side tray.  The excess wire will be bundled and stowed inside the side tray area.

Here the transducer wire is enclosed in split loom and mounted to the front deck headed into the side tray. The excess wire will be bundled and stowed inside the side tray area. Note the wire ties holding the main wire loom to the top of the side tray.

Here is the ground block.  I used this to connect the U1 batteries ground to the switch panel grounds.  Note the two holes drilled on the upper vertical section.  Once all the ground wires are attached to the bar, the bar will be mounted inside the side tray through these two holes.
Here is the ground block. I used this to connect the U1 batteries ground to the switch panel grounds. Note the two holes drilled on the upper vertical section. Once all the ground wires are attached to the bar, the bar will be mounted inside the side tray through these two holes.

Here the switch / fuse panel has been installed, note the screws now holding the ground block in place inside the side tray.

Here the switch / fuse panel has been installed, note the screws now holding the ground block in place inside the side tray.

 

This is the Humminbird depth finders mounting bracket.  The nice thing about Humminbird Vs Lowrance, is that Humminbird's mount allows for the wire installation up through the center of the mount.  You can see the plugs mounted inside the mount, so the unit just plugs onto the mount and into the cords at the same time.  Very handy, and clean!

This is the Humminbird depth finders mounting bracket. The nice thing about Humminbird Vs Lowrance, is that Humminbird’s mount allows for the wire installation up through the center of the mount. You can see the plugs mounted inside the mount, so the unit just plugs onto the mount and into the cords at the same time. Very handy, and clean!

The battery install was into the rowers seat.  Here you can see the 2 group 24 trolling motor batteries, the U1 electronics battery and the battery charger all installed neatly into the rowers seat compartment.

The battery install was into the rowers seat. Here you can see the 2 group 24 trolling motor batteries, the U1 electronics battery and the battery charger all installed neatly into the rowers seat compartment.

This is a special plug you can get for the 110v plug for the charger to go through a bulkhead.  In this case its been mounted into the seat compartment and allows plugging the charger in without having to open the seat compartment.

This is a special plug you can get for the 110v plug for the charger to go through a bulkhead. In this case its been mounted into the seat compartment and allows plugging the charger in without having to open the seat compartment.

For the trolling motor I also purchased the quick release mounting plate.  Shown here is the boat side of the plate mounted.  This small "puck" is all that is permanently mounted to the boat!

For the trolling motor I also purchased the quick release mounting plate. Shown here is the boat side of the plate mounted. This small “puck” is all that is permanently mounted to the boat!

The new trolling motor shown in a deployed position.

The new trolling motor shown in a deployed position.

And shown here in it's "stowed" position.

And shown here in it’s “stowed” position.

 

 

I think this boat will work out great, both on the river and on stillwater, or our bays and estuary’s for salmon.. That’s one of the main reasons I purchased the saltwater trolling motor! Now it’s off the lake to try it out, stay tuned for some upcoming fishing reports!!

Enjoy!

Hud

The Blogs HERE!

We’v got it done, the blog is now officially on this web page..  From now on expect to find all blog posts for Hudsflywater here on our new web page www.hudsflywater.com under Blog…  If you have had an RSS or a link to the old blog, please feel free to re-link to this page..

 

Enjoy!

Hud